Happy 19th Anniversary!

Last night I visited Tiananmen Square. I came along with a couple of friends. We had candles and much curiosity to see what it feels like to be standing on the place of tragedy exactly 19 years after the first shot that night. That was on June 3rd 10:30 pm. It did not occur to us that the square closes for visitors every night after the flag is taken down. Yet, there were quite a few people standing close to the square, mostly posing for photographs next to the shiny light up of Forbidden City with taking only a few glances behind them.

I visited Tianamen Square again this morning at 4:30 am, in order to witness the daily flag raising ceremony. There were a couple of hundred people crowding on the designated space for observers. I couldn't tell whether it was more or less than usually, perhaps about the same. The perfectly synchronized peace keepers marched in at 4:45 and gave their honor to the flag. A storm of camera clicks followed. Once the flag was flapping in the air, the tourists walked back to their buses and the regular life around the mausoleum resumed. I noticed a couple of people who looked different others, perhaps they were civil rights activists or concerned citizens. They could have been from the secret police too. Or maybe I am just making it up, because I was looking around too eagerly. Many people were weaving their own small Chinese flags, breakfasting, buying souvenirs. Early rising seniors came to wind off their kites.


I did not regret getting up to see the ceremony. I knew it would have been unreasonable to expect a great spectacle or civil disobedience. However, I was hoping that I would catch a hint of unusual piety. Nineteen years after the massacre, it remains a taboo. There are no apparent marks of the event on the ground and the flag is raised all the way to the top of the flagpole. Does the lack of tangible demonstrations of grief signify that they have forgotten?

The square remains, even today, The Gate of Heavenly Peace.